Stop! You’re ‘Over-Socializing!’

A few weeks ago, I heard probably the WORST piece of dog training advice I have ever seen anywhere. And the reason this person felt they could give this?  They claimed to be a ‘certified dog trainer’.  It was so bad I actually waited to write about it, so you didn’t have to hear me REALLY rant.

Now, first, let me say there is NO REGULATION on dog training.  There may be some schools that are considered better than others, but NONE of them can be taken as definitive.  And these schools run the gambit from petstore-type training to independent ‘schools’ that run certification programs. Most training schools believe in Purely Positive training, but certainly they don’t all work that way.  And, ultimately, anyone could create a theory, design a school, and voila!  There ya go, no matter how false or dangerous their methods are.  Now that doesn’t mean I disagree with ALL dog trainers, ALL of the time.  I don’t.  But being a ‘certified’ dog trainer is a somewhat dubious claim.  Every person who enrolls their dog in a class or with a trainer owes it to themselves and their dog to rigorously vet the person’s methods to make sure they HONESTLY believe it is the best choice for their friend.  (Note: there are certain federally recognized programs for SERVICE dogs, highly-trained skills, but even this type of training is largely unregulated.  Such is the world of dog training.)

And just to add fuel to that particular fire, the ACTUAL science of dogs is still in its infancy.  Translation: science is still ‘discovering’ things about dogs that dog owners have known for YEARS.  Science isn’t making a contribution to dog training theories at this point precisely because they are still studying dog BEHAVIOR.  So no, whatever method the school is using is not dog-specific ‘science based’ (and if they make this claim, chances are good they are actually talking about Skinner’s theories of behaviorism.. which was largely discredited as a solo working theory of training ANY ANIMAL many years ago).

At any rate, I’ve already called the credentials into question, so let’s look at this person’s claim.

She claimed that dogs today are ‘over-socialized’.  Her definition of the sin?  Dogs that are *gasp* friendly to people, even strangers.  Not kidding.

Now, let’s look this theory over, back to front.

First, as I’ve said elsewhere in this blog, true protection dogs are HIGHLY TRAINED.  Sure, Fifi can bark like she’s a biting dog when company comes to the door, but she is doing a job (sounding the alarm), and she trusts that YOU will make the call.  You open the door, and Fifi knows her job is over.  She greets the company like they are her bestest long-lost friend, and life proceeds as usual.  She is not a trained protection dog, and she would no more bite your guests than pee on their feet.  This doesn’t mean she doesn’t perform some of the actions one would consider ‘protecting’, but she certainly isn’t going to ‘sic’ your guests.

Now, you potentially could teach your poorly-socialized dog a similar skill, but he is going to be distrustful.. which means his behavior will be completely unpredictable when you open the door.  It is, however, doubtful he will greet anyone in a friendly manner unless he knows them well.  Instead, he may hide.  He may continue to growl and menace your guests.  He may try to guard you, or a host of other behaviors.  What IS certain is that he isn’t going to trust you to make the call, and only he will decide which reaction he uses.

Which is not to say, of course, that you can’t train your dog not to go to everyone. And dogs do need to learn that YOU get to decide whether a visit with a stranger on the street is in the cards or not.  But that has absolutely nothing to do with socializing or not socializing, and everything to do with TRAINING YOUR DOG to wait on your command.  A friendly dog given the OK is going to be a friendly dog interacting with someone.  An under-socialized dog given the OK is still going to be an unpredictable, under-socialized dog.

I was once traveling through an international airport.  They used trained drug-sniffing dogs to check carry-on luggage for contraband.  And yet, the dog who sniffed my bag wagged her tail and gave me a cursory lick on my hand, as well.  I have no doubt she would have alerted at need, but friendly dogs are a credit to society, whatever their profession.  And police dogs, too, are HIGHLY trained.  They don’t make an attack call on their own, which is why police officers can safely take them home at night.

A Real Life Worst-Case (but common) Scenario

Now let’s take a look at this from another side: in real-life with our pet dogs.

We have all heard the old adage ‘to err is human’.  That goes for our dogs, too.  We can minimize the risks by teaching solid obedience, but no matter how well-trained your dog is, he or she is still going to screw up at some point (I once was in an obedience class where the instructor’s OWN highly-trained GSD walked to the center of the circle of dogs and took a poo on the floor.  It happens, folks).  That means some day your dog is going to get off-leash outside and suddenly go deaf.

In an effort not to ‘over-socialize’ your dog, per poor dog trainer instruction, you kept his social time to specific people.  Consequently, he is used to short people, or tall people, or skinny people, or overweight people, or (more probably) adults and calm, dog-knowing kids who never ever grab dogs.

Today is Fido’s day.  In your normal everyday rush, you accidentally didn’t close the front door tightly, and he wanders into your unfenced front yard.

And a non dog-savvy child happens by.

Now all dogs NEED to be socialized to kids.  Some dogs might see them as prey.  Some see it as a herding-opportunity (and may nip heels).  Some dogs may even see the child as a noisy intruder.  It doesn’t matter what breed your Fido is.  Without exposure, and regardless of how Fido sees the child, his anxiety is going to be high simply because he is in an unfamiliar situation.

Let’s pretend your under-socialized Fido miraculously fails to become immediately territorial or aggressive to this unknown, and imagine that he has just enough social skills to want to check out the intruder before making up his mind.

He approaches the child in the usual posture of an uncertain dog, with tense body, tail held high, maybe even his hackles up.  The child, again with the usual non-dog-savvy nature of children, does what these kids do: completely ignores the body language, squeals in a high-pitched voice, and reaches for uncertain, on-the-edge Fido. And you can almost bet money that the child will throw her arms around your dog’s neck and lean into his face for a kiss, even if it means the child has to chase or grab Fido first.

Accidents could happen in this scenario EVEN WITH well-socialized dogs.  But what about YOUR dog, who was already nervous?  The child may wear the scars for a normal (if not very socially correct) behavior for the rest of her life.  And that is YOUR FAULT.

And no, this isn’t something you can predict.  I brought Rover to an older-kids-and-adults (so I thought) family function.  He had been there multiple times, and I felt confident he would be fine.  What I didn’t know was somebody had brought their 2yo granddaughter, whom neither I nor Rover had ever met.  And she proceeded to hug AND FALL flat on top of my dog.  Solid socialization saved the day.  Both child and dog walked away, none the worse for the experience.

Socialization is the Name of the Game

I’ll repeat this again: dogs SHOULD BE friendly to people.  All people.  It doesn’t mean your dog will never find someone he doesn’t trust (dogs do that, too), but that isn’t the same thing as under-socializing your dog on purpose so that he is ALWAYS distrustful.  That isn’t a balanced dog, folks.

And again: protection dogs are TRAINED.  They are not allowed to make those decisions on their own, they are given COMMANDS.  And dogs that are ‘protection’ dogs and are allowed to make those decisions on their own are NOT pets.

I fervently hope that this was really just one person’s opinion, and that there isn’t actually a dog-trainer school teaching this crap.  And hopefully, this person isn’t actually allowed to instruct new dog owners.  To think we could be PURPOSELY CREATING under-socialized dogs is just.. horrifying.

Be both a good dog owner AND a responsible neighbor.  Socialize your dog.

House training

Here’s a dirty little secret for you: if you never tell your dog what you don’t want, he’ll never know.

Sounds obvious, right?

Now pretend you are house training him.  You’ve told him what a GREAT DOG he is for going potty outside.  Wonderful- he expects treats and praise for that.  But you never bothered to tell him that you don’t want him to poo in the house.  One day, in his necessity (often for puppies) he has to ‘go’.  Indeed, he has to go bad enough (or forgot it was on offer) to give up the treat.  No biggie.

And he leaves a huge smelly pile in your dining room.  Again.

Your dog may now realize he missed out on a treat.  Oh well, maybe next time.  Meanwhile, your house reeks, your guests stop visiting, and you are left frustratedly scrubbing the floor.  Again.

See, dogs aren’t mind-readers, and extinction just flat out doesn’t work.

And we know that.  ‘Stands like a tree’, done CORRECTLY, can take you months (or so they say).  Ignoring jumping never works at all.  So why do we think the BEST working theory for house training is to ignore the mistakes?  How does our dog EVER learn what we don’t like?

I speak from experience here.  I’ve tried it twice, folks.  The first time was unintentionally, mind you, but years ago I was unwilling to put any of our remaining time into re-housebreaking my elderly dog.  At his age, I was just glad I still had him around, and I wasn’t going to quibble over some poo.  One day, in my exasperation of chasing kids and doing the usual duty of mom, wife, and superhero extraordinaire, I sighed, “not again, Rover.”  That was all it took to correct two years of accidents, and he never made another mistake in the house.

My current dog was, as I’ve said elsewhere, initially the product of PP dog training methods.  So every day for months, I religiously took him outside.  I treated and praised, cuddled and kissed.  And every day, I had another puddle on the floor to clean up, another pile of poo.  When he hit 11 months old (No, that is not a type-o), I was finished, through, done. It was the final nail in my PP love-affair coffin.  I went back to what I knew had worked with my own history of dogs.  I brought my newest puppy to his pile o’poo exactly one time, I never rubbed his nose it in or spanked him for it.  I just shook my head, told him no, he was naughty, and put on my most disappointed face.  For the next six days, I picked it up in a paper towel, shook my head as I put on my disappointed face, and put on a big show as I put it in the trash.  I continued to praise for going outside, but I took a firmer tact with mistakes. And that was it: he was trained.

See, the problem is that our own good intentions cripple us – and our dogs.  We don’t give them the right cues or the right body language to actually do what we WANT them to do.  We are good with the praise but stink with the corrections.  So they know how to please us and.. don’t get the other side of the coin.

Want to avoid months of house-soiling, replacing your carpets, and frustration with your dog?

Housebreaking your puppy- the right way

Here’s the short list, better explanations below:

• Take your puppy outside with every activity change AND at least once per hour.  Watch for signals.
• Take puppy to a few different spots until he finds one he likes.
• Praise like crazy if he gets it right
• Mistakes in the house deserve mild discipline: tell him no, naughty, and take him back outside.

ALWAYS BE VIGILANT.  Watch your puppy at all times.

First, young puppies have small bladders.  Add an hour to each month of life, and you know about how many hours your new pup can ‘hold it’.  In the housebreaking stage, it is inhumane to expect more from your young dog.  I already hear your complaints: you work 8 hours and no one will be home.  In that case, you have a responsibility to find someone to watch your puppy or to come take her out in the middle of the day.  Alternately, you can lock her in a safe place for the time you are gone, something larger than a crate, and complete with a ‘potty area’.  It won’t help you to housebreak her (unless you really want her to go on wee pads forever) but at least she won’t be confined to a tiny space for hours on end.

Take your puppy out every time he changes activities.  Before he eats, after he eats, after he drinks,   after he plays, and after a nap.  Give him time to ‘go’ when you are outside, and don’t be afraid to lead him to a few different places (some dogs prefer bushes, others grass).  Give him a 5-10 minute window to go.  If he doesn’t, you can take him back inside but WATCH him vigilantly.  Some websites suggest crating for a little while (to prevent an accident) and there is some merit in that.  But my concern is a mess in the crate, decidedly NOT where you want accidents to happen (and if you are of the belief that bigger is better in crates, you are going to pay the price as puppy finds a nice out-of-the-way corner).  After another 5 or 10 minutes, or if he starts sniffing the carpet, cocking his tail at a funny angle, acting antsy, whimpering, or squatting, take him back outside.  Praise like crazy if he gets it right.

I prefer to make sure little puppies get out at least once an hour.  They don’t necessarily have to go that often, but watching the clock (or even setting an alarm) will keep you aware of how very often this activity needs to occur for success.

Young puppies deserve gentle corrections.  If you catch your pup a millisecond too late, a chiding, “naughty,” and a trip outside is good enough.  If you find an accident after the fact – and who knows how long after – you missed it.  Clean it up and keep your silence.  Your fault for not watching, not the puppy’s fault for having an accident.  Take the poo outside and set it on the ground in Puppy’s favorite spot.  The smell will help remind him why he is there.

And although you can expect it to take many repetitions of this activity to really form your pup’s concrete notion of where to go, take heart: Rover mentioned above was housebroken at 9wks.  It really isn’t out of the realm of possibility that your vigilance will pay off just as fast.  And vigilance is exactly what you need: if your puppy is out of your sight, you have already made a mistake.  Keep her with you, be aware of what she is doing at all times.  This is good advice even for housebroken puppies: no chewed wires, no destroyed glasses.

No nose rubbing in the mess, folks.  It’s OK to lead your dog to the spot (never call him to it, though), and it’s ok to ‘show’ him why you are upset.  It’s OK to say, “naughty,” “no,” or whatever word you want to use.   You can look disappointed, angry, or a combination of the two.  And follow it up with a trip outside for puppy.  No need to yell (a low, growly voice works better, anyway) or hit your dog.  No long winded explanations, no lectures.

Overnights, too, are hard for puppies.  You should never let your young puppy wander at will or sleep anywhere you don’t want her to poop in later.  I prefer crating for this age, but you may find another method that works for you.  Keep your ears open: the chances are great that she won’t sleep through the night, and you need to hear her middle-of-the-night whimpers.  Take her out to go potty, then back in the crate (otherwise she’ll believe it is time to get up, and unless your idea of morning includes moonlight, I don’t suggest encouraging this!).  Remember: like a baby, she is needy.  Listen to her cues.  Don’t worry, before you know it she’ll be sleeping straight through.

Older Dogs

This is where your crate is your best friend.  Just like puppies, be vigilant.  But unlike puppies, your dog will only go a few times a day, and it is much harder to catch him or her in the act.  The process will take longer, too, since it is now a habit.  And the scent already in your carpets or floors and acts like a magnet: so clean it up thoroughly.

Again, praise and correction are your best choices here.  Try to figure out your grown dog’s schedule.  Get him or her out every few hours, crate them if you won’t be home or overnight, and watch them the rest of the time for the subtle cues that they need to go (sniffing in one spot, holding the tail at a strange angle, pacing, or squatting).  Hurry your dog outside, praise like crazy if she gets it right, and give the same ‘no, naughty’ and body language listed above if she makes a mistake.  A leash used to tether her to you may be helpful: she learns your routines and your scents as you get used to hers, AND she can’t wander off to have an accident.  Give her a bone or something to do if you plan to be in one place for a long period of time.  Even grown dogs can chew inappropriate things if they are bored.

Expect the process to take a much longer time than it would have if she was still a puppy: the very idea of going outside to toilet may be foreign to her.

And one last thing: when you first get your older dog, she is going to be very nervous.  She may have to go every hour, just like a puppy.  Give her a week or two and she’ll be more settled (and show you how well she can wait) but for now, respect what she is going through and take her out as often as you would for a young puppy.  She’ll appreciate the extra time you are putting into her and you will be helping her to learn the house-breaking rule.

Of special note with older dogs:

I really think we need to be honest with ourselves about these guys.  Sometimes, it is an absolute losing battle, and far too many dogs in rescue are not housebroken.  They may have been street dogs, they may be dogs who were dropped off at the shelter and never properly trained.  They may even have been puppy-mill cast-offs, and are used to living in their own poo.  Day in and day out we can follow the same routine of correction and praise, and day in and day out they may make the same mistake.  Their body language will start to reflect their own unhappiness with themselves, yet they seem unable to change their behavior.  Accept that this may be an area where you and your dog will have to compromise instead (especially true with puppy-mill rescues).  Provide a place for your dog where she either a.) doesn’t have an accident (like a correctly-sized crate) or b.) can go without upsetting you (like a puppy wee-pad, a newspaper-covered bathroom, etc).  Your relationship should not be diminished to your frustration and her guilt.

I’m not saying older dogs from these situations can’t be housebroken, but it is OK to admit defeat if you have been at it for months (or even years) with no progress.  That doesn’t mean you need a different dog: it just means you need a better method of management for yours.  Find a medium you can both feel successful with.  And it bares repeating here: try different environments.  Some dogs have strong preferences and don’t feel the urge in the wrong place.  And don’t be afraid to take her on a walk: sure, you lose the advantage of her scent in your yard, but walks are great for getting the bowels moving, and you *might* learn what particular place she prefers and find a similar spot on your own property.

But Wait!  What about the idea that he’ll find an out-of-the-way place if I ‘punish’??

Yep, there is merit in that.  And if he doesn’t know that you will listen to his ‘outside’ signals, and IF you aren’t vigilant, that is PRECISELY what he will do.  It is only partly due to you, though: dogs don’t want to mess in their dens.  Your bedroom, way down the hall, seems out of the ‘nest’ to him, and a decent place to go.

And punishment is really the wrong word.  You aren’t giving some sort of long, drawn out lecture.  You aren’t making him sit in a chair while you lambast him for his choice of friends, take away his cell phone for a month, or send him to his room.  All you are REALLY doing is saying, “I don’t like that.”  That isn’t really punishment at all (although he may take it that way).

But the correction is only one leg of your three-legged stool.  Correction as needed, vigilance always, and PRAISE for getting it right.  Since you are there to stop or correct mid-accident, he gets a nice, clear message that it isn’t his pooping that you don’t like, just the fact that he picked THIS SPOT.  He’ll figure it out.

Other theories:

Purely Positive: this theory believes you should ignore all mistakes.  Only praise and treats are OK, because anything else will cause unnecessary stress on your dog.  With enough repetitions, they say, your dog will do it.. for the treat, I guess, if nothing else.  As I mentioned, this was a total failure for me.

Dominance: I haven’t heard much from the other side, lately, but this theory used to suggest a smack on the bottom with a newspaper and rubbing your dog’s nose in the mess were the keys to success.  Unfortunately, dogs do occasionally learn to like the taste of poo, so I do not suggest purposely putting his mouth anywhere near it.  I don’t necessarily see a smack with a newspaper (more noisy than painful) as abuse, but I also question how well it works.  Use another method, please.

I’d also like to comment that I have never been in favor of restricting water for my dog at any time.  This idea stems from the belief that less liquid at certain times means our dogs may have a longer window for ‘holding it’.  I believe you are risking dehydration and a bladder infection, neither of which is good for your dog.  Unless you have a very specific, very good reason for doing this (and, frankly, house training is not one), then you should always give your dog ample access to fresh water.

For the future:

Make sure you let your dog know you see his signal.  If he goes to the door, make eye contact, smile, and ask him if he wants to go outside.  Open the door- even if you aren’t convinced he actually needs to go.  This is the beginnings of training HIM to let YOU know, rather than forcing you to forever watch what he is doing.  You respect his appropriate signal, he respects your response.  You don’t have to purposely teach this as a command, just make sure to acknowledge him.   Yes, eventually your dog may abuse this privilege, and it will be up to you to decide whether or not he really needs to go out.  But for now, respect ALL requests to go outside.  This isn’t technically referred to as part of house training, but having a dog who communicates with you (rather than one who sits staring at the door as though it will magically open) is worth a mention.  Laugh all you want: there really ARE dogs that will do that very thing.

I have heard a current dog-trainer in this theory say your dog should not be able to ask you for a potty break under the belief that it is your dog controlling you.  I disagree completely: when you gotta go, you gotta go.  There are better arenas to teach your dog respect, and this particular body function should not factor into it.  So take your dog outside whenever he or she seems to be signalling they need it.  And if you aren’t getting any specific signals from you dog, pick a cue from what she is doing.  Maybe it’s when she goes to the door, maybe it’s when she whines, maybe it’s when she looks at you with her head cocked a certain way.  Whatever you choose, be consistent and ALWAYS treat it like it’s her ‘signal’ to go out.  Eventually, that is precisely what it will be.

On Puppies: Nipping

Nipping is highly obnoxious but completely expected behavior in puppies.  It is no different than babies putting things in their mouths to see how they taste, feel, and what they do.

There are numerous ideas for stopping this, but only one that has ever worked for me:

When puppy nips, say, ‘ouch, no’.  If he nips again, put him down.

Puppy won’t stop there, and he may even begin REALLY biting at you, jumping at you to get to your hands, or doing other highly obnoxious things.  He was enjoying the game and doesn’t, at first, get why he’s now on the floor.  So he goes with the flow, and tries from his new position.

If you are sitting on the floor, say no.  Stand up.  Don’t make eye contact until he calms down.

If you are standing, say no.  Don’t make eye contact again until he calms down.

If he insists on continuing, remove him to a safe place: his crate, or another room that he normally rests in.  I’ve found that this sort of insistence (especially if it reaches a sort of fever-pitch or seems almost retaliatory) is usually a sign that puppy needs some quiet time or even a nap.

After he calms down, whether in his resting place or still on the floor, re-engage your puppy calmly.  Cuddle or play other (non-nipping) games with him.  If he nips again, same procedure as before.

You can also add a toy to your playtime, and encourage him to bite that, instead.  This gives him the mouthing outlet he needs AND teaches him to use it in an acceptable manner.  Be sure to use lots of ‘good dog’ praise when he is chewing on his toy.

Remember: this is a puppy.  Stay calm.  Give him the rules calmly.  Be a leader he can trust, and have enough respect for your puppy to know when he needs a nap rather than more discipline.  Quiet time is good.

Something to consider:

Ian Dunbar, master dog trainer, suggests here that we need to gradually stop puppy biting.  In real terms, this means you put up with it THIS hard today, and gradually correct for lighter and lighter nips over time.  His thinking is that it teaches bite inhibition so that, even in the heat of an aggressive or defensive outburst, an adult dog will never bite humans too hard.  I’m not sure I agree completely with him, but I have found it useful to do the ‘lighter and lighter’ bites because, after all, puppies are still learning.  By teaching lighter and lighter nips to my puppies, I can later remind my enthusiastic adult dog to ‘be gentle’ and they know I am referring to their mouths.  I do not, however, put up with ANY amount of nipping my face, at any time.  You can draw the line wherever you’d like, as long as you let your dog know what you expect, and you teach it systematically in a way that balances your puppy’s need to mouth with your need to not be nipped.

Other ideas that never worked for me:

Yelping.  Sounds good, but no way do we actually sound like a dog.  When it has worked (for a millisecond), the puppy didn’t know I had made the noise, and as soon as he figured it out, he was right back to biting.  Sounding like a squeaky toy is just silly.

Waving a finger in his face and saying no.  I don’t know where I got this idea from, but cue puppy biting the waving finger.  Pointless and silly.

Time-out for ‘thinking about it’.  Just no, folks.  Puppies don’t take a ‘time out’ to think about ANYTHING.  He isn’t thinking about the consequences of his actions.  What he IS doing is calming down without you to bite, redirecting his energy to something in his crate/space, or napping.  It isn’t a real time-out, and don’t confuse it as such.  This doesn’t mean you can’t ‘time-out’ in a crate, just be aware of the true purpose: he calms down.  That’s it.

On herding breeds and pants’ legs:

We may, or may not, consider this nipping in the usual sense, but it certainly falls in the realm of ‘annoying’.  Herding pups find moving things FASCINATING, and that includes your legs.  Next time your pup launches an attack on your pants’ legs, just stop moving.  Stand still.  You can tell your pup ‘no’, but don’t move forward again until he stops his behavior.  Repeat.  I promise this behavior will be short-lived if you are consistent.  And like with nipping, if he insists on the behavior and you cannot move beyond your spot, it is time for him to take a rest in his crate or napping place.

If your puppy seems to be exhibiting real aggression, rather than just nipping, you might find my post Shards of Glass helpful.

Bits- Attachment Disorder

Before I get into this, I first need to clarify.  This is NOT about Separation Anxiety in your dog.  Dogs with that issue are generally normal dogs, and you would not be able to tell they have an issue unless they are left alone.  In a way, it is the exact opposite of what I’m discussing here.

I’m including this link in my blog for a host of reasons.

But here is the one that matters:

If you’ve ever faced this situation with a dog, it is absolutely heart-breaking, exhausting, frustrating.  And it probably isn’t your fault.

Attachment disorder in dogs

Excerpt:

Dogs with attachment disorder have likely been abused or deprived of attachment or bonding within the first several weeks to several months of life. Dogs with attachment disorder may exhibit any number of behaviors such as hyperactivity, they can be destructive, eat too much or too little, become clingy or unable to bond with their owners, and they can be impulsive.

I disagree with the writer that it is a good idea to shower dogs with attachment disorders with hugs and kisses.  Timid dogs may find the situation frightening and invasive, dominant dogs may find it intrusive.  In both situations, you are setting yourself up for a bite AND you have your face directly in the line of fire.

And I’m personally not sure you can ever trust a dog with bonding issues that is showing dominance and aggression.  I realize we want to save every dog, but realistically a dog who cannot bond with people AND thinks people exist to dominate could very well be a ticking time bomb.  I will research this issue more and post any additional information I can find.

Addendum: it might be interesting to compare the situation of human-dog bonding to an article describing the training of livestock guardian dogs:

The critical period for dogs to form social attachments is roughly between 3 and 12 weeks of age (Landry 1999b citing Freedman et al 1961, Scott 1962, 1968 and Scott and Fuller 1965). This process is distinct from imprinting as described by Lorenz (1937 reviewed in Landry 1999b), which occurs when the pup first opens its eyes at about two weeks old. Social attachment becomes difficult after 16 weeks and so it is essential to begin the training of LGDs as pups; there are examples in the literature of unsuccessful attempts to introduce adult dogs to livestock in Namibia (Marker 2000c) and among the Navajo (Black and Green 1984).

Source: http://doczine.com/bigdata/2/1367013626_ed56fe8bdb/livestockguardingdog.pdf

Although, of course, that is a discussion of bonding livestock guardian dogs to the stock they will guard and may be distinctly different, it is interesting to note that this article feels it is extremely unlikely that a dog can be ‘socialized’ to this duty after the 16 week period has closed, and yet we feel we can somehow fix the problem in pet dogs and humans regardless of age.  I will continue my search for applicable information.

I am a bit concerned that the rise in ‘feral’ and street dogs being added to the ‘adoptable pet selection’ available from rescues and shelters may give sharp rise to the numbers of these cases, although only time will tell whether that concern is valid or not.

It might also interest you to compare this to the similar condition called Reactive Attachment Disorder (or RAD) in children:

Mental Health: Reactive Attachment Disorder

excerpt:

Common Symptoms of Inhibited RAD Include:

Detached

Unresponsive or resistant to comforting

Excessively inhibited (holding back emotions)

Withdrawn or a mixture of approach and avoidance

Common Symptoms With Disinhibited RAD Include:

Indiscriminate sociability

Inappropriately familiar or selective in the choice of attachment figures

(excerpt taken directly, formatting is mine for ease of reading)

Note: most behavioral issues in dogs are well within the definition of ‘normal’, and this posting should not be used as an excuse for laziness when training your dog.

Methods and Magic: Stand

There are a host of different ways to teach this very basic, but fundamental, skill.  As is the case with all of these techniques, this is NOT a complete list, so if you are struggling, ferret up an alternative that will work for your dog.

Although this particular skill has never been very useful to me, it’s still a nice one to teach your dog just in case you need to use it.

Hands off method (Positive): from a sit, pull the treat toward you until your dog stands up to follow the treat.  When you like what this looks like, add the command ‘Stand’.  Phase out the treats.

Hands on method (modified dominance): Put a hand gently under your dog’s tummy, directly in front of his rear legs, holding him up.  Give the ‘Stand’ command.  Praise.

What I like: I have used the hands-off method, pulling the treat forward to put my dog in a stand.  Again, though, I find this of limited use in our daily lives, although it is a necessary skill for dogs who are going to be used in the show ring or various forms of competition.

Also make sure you practice this one with the ‘stay’ command.

For the basics on how to make sure you manage to teach your dog obedience commands (and other behaviors):

It’s Not Rocket Science

And for more on specific training methods for obedience:

Methods and Magic: Leash Training

Methods and Magic: Come

Methods and Magic: Sit

Methods and Magic: Lie Down

Methods and Magic: Heel

Methods and Magic: Stay

Methods and Magic: Leash Training

There are a host of different ways to teach this very basic, but fundamental, skill.  As is the case with all of these techniques, this is NOT a complete list, so if you are struggling, ferret up an alternative that will work for your dog.

Just a note before I give you these: about six months ago I was perusing the sign-up sheet for a chain pet store.  I do this occasionally, because I’m always curious what- and when- they are teaching.

This particular store (like others) uses ‘Purely Positive’ training methods, and brags at length about how well this works.

Listed under the beginners class was loose leash walking.  So far so good.

But listed under the ‘advanced’ class was… advanced loose leash walking!  Seriously, true loose leash walking is now an ‘advanced skill’??

I wish I didn’t know why this was- but sadly I tried the ‘positive’ method before I went back to my tried-and-true.  I’ll tell you more about that in a bit.

Hands-off Luring method (positive): Although this isn’t technically luring, you are going to use the promise of treats to keep your dog from pulling or lunging.  With your dog on a leash, start walking.  If she lunges ahead, call her name as you take a few steps back.  She will turn to follow you.  Give her a treat and keep walking.  If she lunges ahead again, repeat the procedure, calling her name and stepping backwards.  Treat.  Eventually, she will follow you automatically.

Hands-off Free shaping method (“positive”)- “Stands like a tree” probably isn’t technically considered free shaping, but since it really gives your dog ZERO further instructions, it might as well be.  The idea is this: you start walking.  Fido forages ahead and hits the end of the leash.  You stop walking and wait for Fido to turn toward you or slacken the leash, and as soon as he does, you start walking again.  Rinse and repeat  (and rinse and repeat, and rinse and repeat, and… ).

Hands-on method 1 (modified dominance): Walk with your dog.  Any time he is walking nicely, call his name and give him a treat.  If you don’t like what he is doing, turn in another direction and continue walking.  Allow the collar to correct his forward momentum.  When he is back walking nicely, praise and treat.  Repeat as necessary, turning and walking forward, until your dog learns to turn when you do and doesn’t pull at all.  This method can be done with a training collar on, but you are not going to directly apply corrections.

Hands-on method 2 (dominance): With your dog on the training collar of your choice, start walking.  When he starts pulling, give him a correction.  Again, both hands should be on the leash for this method, with a slack length of leash between them for effective corrections.   Don’t stop walking, but correct your dog whenever he is about to start pulling, if he tries to pull to either side, or if he lags behind you.

For me: I have had absolutely zero luck with the first two methods.  Zero, zilch, Nada.  Method one works if your dog is that interested in where you are going (no guarantee) and decides to watch your body language (questionable at this stage when the world is so much more interesting).  It seems to work better with young puppies (who already want to follow) but once the dog hits puberty and couldn’t care less what you are doing, there is a chance he or she won’t even respond to their own NAME, let alone come toward you.

Method two was a complete joke: My dog would literally turn back and look at me, leash still tight.  If he took a step toward me, as soon as I started walking again, he was back to lunging forward.  I practiced this method for months, and I can honestly say it did not help his leash manners at all.  Months.  Miserable.

Over the years, I developed my own method for loose leash walking.  It has worked on both young dogs and dedicated pullers.  Just make sure your dog is a ‘success’ before you move on to the next step. (this is the method I have gone back to, now that my short affair with ‘Purely Positive’ is over)

So here’s how I do it:

1.) Set up an area outside that is a square, maybe 10ft by 10ft.  Put your dog on a 10 ft leash, and start walking the sides of the square.  No matter what your dog does, you are going to completely ignore him, and just keep walking your square.  When your dog is following you within the length of the leash without pulling, you win.  When he is consistently following without pulling, move on to the next step.  (although technically you are supposed to walk even if your dog ends up tangled in the leash, I stop to fix the leash first)

2.) Put your dog on a six foot lead, with a similar square.  But this time, whenever your dog ignores you (starts lunging forward, sideways, or stares off at something), you are going to change directions.  Praise here when your dog also changes directions.  This exercise is complete when he changes directions as you do, without pulling.  If necessary, you can use the correction collar of your choice, but please make sure you are more gentle when you change directions.  You don’t want to choke your dog or yank him off his feet here.

3.) Take your show on the road, but this time with a training collar on.  Because of the plethora of distractions, he IS going to forget he isn’t supposed to be pulling, and a leash correction when he starts pulling is appropriate.  You can also suddenly change directions if he still isn’t getting it, but be careful not to be too aggressive here: you don’t want to yank him off his feet.  Praise when he is in the right place, but be meticulous with your corrections.  Don’t think you failed if he is awful for the first ten minutes: he will be better as you go along.  Just keep up your corrections and keep going.  And if necessary, pick up your walking pace while you are out.  Dogs concentrating on keeping up have a harder time getting ahead of you (and it is a much more interesting walk!).

If he starts yanking uncontrollably or lunging at dogs, cars, kids, or other things, turn in the opposite direction and walk the other way.  You cannot do an effective correction on a dog who is past thinking.  Note whatever the catalyst was, and work on JUST that issue another day.

Puppies: Use lots and lots and lots of treats. Keep walks for pups very short, and don’t worry about perfection.  Any time your pup is where you want him to be (slack leash, any where as long as he isn’t directly in your way), reward him (don’t forget the praise!).  Worry about better manners on the leash once he hits 6 or 7 months old.  And if you hit a point where you don’t seem to be making progress, and you are getting frustrated, shelf the lessons for a few weeks or a month.  You need to stay calm while you are teaching this, and any other, skill.

For the basics on how to make sure you manage to teach your dog obedience commands (and other behaviors):

It’s Not Rocket Science

And for more on specific training methods for obedience:

Methods and Magic: Come

Methods and Magic: Sit

Methods and Magic: Lie Down

Methods and Magic: Heel

Methods and Magic: Stay

The Right Tool For the Job

Although dog training isn’t magic, there is a strange sort of magic that happens when you match dog to tool.  Suddenly, you are able to fix a life-time of problems with just two corrections.  It DOES happen, I’m not kidding.  And no, the tool isn’t working on its own- we ARE applying the tool in the correct manner- but it can seem like fairy dust was involved.

All sorts of rumors fly about tools and how terrible they are, how abusive, ad nauseum.  While it IS true that a tool can be misused or abused, and some tools CAN hurt a dog if one isn’t careful, that applies to anything that fits the term ‘tool’.  I could easily cut my fingers off with my husband’s skill saw, and have pounded my thumb with a hammer.  That doesn’t make the tool bad on its own, and it certainly doesn’t mean everyone who uses a tool is going to misapply it.

I am absolutely open to using any tool that works in a given situation, with three caveats: 1.) Will the use of this tool be short term?  2.) Will the dog and owner’s lives be enhanced by the use of the tool? 3.) Do I/the trainer know how to use the tool?

Almost all tools should be short term.  That doesn’t mean you can expect the tool to work within a few days, but it does mean your goal should be to wean the dog off the tool and still continue to have the dog behave.  I’ll use shock and stim collars here as an example: if the shock/stim only needs to be used in the training stages, then I am fine with their use.  But if your dog is always going to need one, then it won’t fundamentally change the behavior, and shouldn’t be used by itself.

All tools should strengthen your relationship with your dog, and add to the quality of life for both of you.  For instance, a crate used in the correct manner can help with all sorts of behavioral issues, and can make your dog feel safe and secure.  But if the crate is used because an owner can’t be bothered to train the dog, and the dog is forced into inactivity for 12 hours at a time, then it is the wrong tool for the job.

If you decide to use a new tool with your dog, you should ALWAYS do your research before trying it.  KNOW how to put the collar on correctly, KNOW how to train your dog to avoid the correction.  No tool should make your dog feel confused and scared, and if you don’t take the time to know what you are doing, that is EXACTLY what can happen.

Tools that work- but have a bad reputation

Choke chains: I have used this tool for many many years, and find it a safe and effective way to correct bad behavior in a dog.  There are a few things to keep in mind though: choose small links so your dog’s hair will not be caught in the links; do NOT leave this tool on your dog all the time, EVER; and the secret to using this tool is a quick tug and release, so you must have slack on this chain when you are not correcting- do not hold this tight all of the time.   I also have successfully used this tool in an extra long length with one particular dog.  It was the sound that she found correcting, rather than the pressure.

Nylon chokes:  these have (sadly) seemed to drop out of favor, but are lovely on long haired breeds and used to be the training collar of choice at classes.  They work identically to the chain variety, but with the added benefit of not getting tangled in longer fur.  They are primarily silent, though, so you will lose the benefit of the sound.  Works best when placed high up on the neck, directly behind the ears.  Again, NOT a collar to leave on all of the time, since the dog can really injure him/herself.

A note on martingales: I have seen these advertised as a better alternative to the chokes listed above.  But for the average person who knows how to use a choke, the warnings about the ‘over tightening’ on a choke are ridiculous.  I’m not saying you can’t use a martingale, especially if you don’t feel confident with one of the two previous tools, but simply that I find them unnecessary for anyone knowledgeable in other options.

Prong: These are also supposed to be a safer alternative to the choke.  These collars must stay relatively tight at all times, and must be placed high on the neck.  They aren’t the torture devices they look like, and may be the perfect tool for some dogs, especially for dogs that don’t respond to an ordinary chain or nylon choke.  They must be tight enough that you need to remove a link to take off the collar- anything you can slide over your dog’s ears is too loose.

Shock/stim devices: These are wonderful tools when used safely and appropriately.  I’m not really in favor of the ‘stim until the dog does the behavior, then stim again’ type use, and prefer ‘stim when the dog is acting incorrectly’, but they can certainly be a valuable tool in whichever application you are following.  Just match the intensity level to your dog, and show him how to stop the stim or shock so he knows he has a choice (not kidding).  These devices, however, may be of limited use when your dog is already in high-alert/drive mode, and may actually push lower levels of aggression into biting, so use this tool wisely.  (I will add here that I don’t like the use of stim collars to teach basic obedience, though, since there are other alternatives.  And since I believe initial training should be positive (with corrections only applied after the dog knows the command well but is misbehaving), I also wouldn’t use this device on a young puppy who is still learning basic rules)

Underground fences: perhaps my favorite use of shock collars, these can really be a life and sanity saver for dogs and owners.  They are NOT a cruel tool to use, just be sure to VERY carefully follow directions when you are using this (hint: it usually takes 3 weeks of training before your dog gets to try this fence on his own.  That may seem silly to you, but it is the difference between a dog who can confidently run around in the yard, and one who is terrified to step off the porch).

Crates: I can only conclude that the new group who thinks crates are ‘abuse’ has never seen a dog who actually likes his/her crate.  Crates are probably the only piece of equipment on this list that I think make lovely long-term equipment IF they are used appropriately.  Do not leave your dog in the crate any longer than you absolutely have to, and a crate is not a replacement for adequate training.  Some dogs do hate the crate, and if you feel you need to use one, it is probably more humane to try to brainstorm a better long-term option.

A tool that isn’t a tool:

Using a buckle collar as a tool when you are trying to leash-train your dog is not a good option.  You can’t really correct your dog on a walk with this, since any attempt to hold or pull your dog (or give the quick tug and release) will only put pressure on the front of his throat.  Some dogs get so used to that feeling that they will spend the entire walk pulling like that, coughing and gagging as they go.  Because this item gives you very little control over your dog, you are stuck using ‘purely positive’, and largely ineffective, methods.   Buckle collars are great for daily wear, just use something else when you are working with your dog.

As much as possible, try to make your tool invisible to your dog.  Remember: the goal is to fade out the tool, so if it is something you are OBVIOUSLY putting on the dog, he is smart enough to know when he is, and isn’t, wearing it.  A tool only really works if it corrects a problem and you can ditch it later on.  That isn’t to say you can’t use a prong, head halter, or even a harness forever if you want to- just that my goal with my dogs is to have them behaving all of the time for me, regardless of what collar they are wearing.

One last note:

Dogs trained by professionals are not trained in regular buckle collars, and dog show dogs are not paraded around the ring in these, either.  Why, then, are you told that it is inhumane to use a tool?  My short answer: these people think you are too ignorant to use a tool correctly.  It is the very same reason that you are told your dog must go to a dog training class, even though training a dog in basic obedience commands is easy.  Their arguments may sound reasonable, but what they are really saying is that you are too dumb to train your dog in a humane, safe way using proven methods without ‘professional’ supervision, even though thousands of people before you have managed it.  ANYONE can call themselves a dog trainer, and ANYONE can tell you that you are doing it wrong.  But once again, if your method (and tools) result in a happy, well-trained dog you are proud to own, then you are doing it RIGHT.

For the basics on how to make sure you manage to teach your dog obedience commands (and other behaviors):

It’s Not Rocket Science

Rewards

My very favorite reward for dogs is praise, and I will tell you why.

Ultimately, I want my dog to work for ME, because it makes him feel good to know I appreciate what he’s doing and because he and I are working together.  And I think all dog training (whether it is for basic house manners, obedience, or tricks) is really about our relationship and our good communication skills.

Food treats really reduce our dogs to the level of a rat: we ignore the fact that he actually likes working with us, and presume that without an external reward, he won’t cooperate.  And that just isn’t fundamentally what and how dogs are.  Add in the fact that you won’t always have a ball in your pocket or a bit of steak, and you can see why it is so important that your dog behaves because of YOU.

But that doesn’t mean food and toys can’t be used, and that doesn’t mean I think using those things in training is completely wrong headed.  It just means that we ALWAYS have to praise our dogs, we ALWAYS have to make positive eye contact and approving body language when we are training them or asking them to do something for us.  We need to think of PRAISE as the ultimate reward.  It is the pinnacle, the thing our dog always wants.

Clickers and Marker words

These aren’t bad to use, necessarily, although I think clickers are a complete waste of money.

The purpose of clickers is to catch your dog at the exact moment he is doing the right thing.  For instance, the exact moment your dog takes a step for a come, or the exact moment the dog goes into a ‘sit’.  But dogs really don’t expect us to be that prompt, and again, we want the rewards to come directly from US, not from something external.  That doesn’t mean clickers don’t work, but dogs are not the same thing as rats.

Marker words (such as ‘Yes!’) are much better.  Your timing can be better (important with complex commands or ‘chains’), and you are still giving your dog a form of praise through the use of a word.  That ‘promise of reward’ is already verbal praise, so if you screw up, say ‘yes’ and treat, but forget to add a ‘good boy!’, you are much safer.  You’ve already given your dog a form of verbal communication, and are already involved.

The wrong way to train with Markers and Treats

I can tell an amateur dog trainer when I see one.  They use their clicker, they give their dog a treat, and they NEVER say anything else.  They leave all the rewarding up to the clicker and the piece of cheese.  WRONG WRONG WRONG.  The dog is working ONLY for those (external) rewards.

Dogs are more complex than that, and deserve our involvement when we are training.  External rewards are great, but what we really want is to make our dogs feel GOOD about obeying.

I was going to make up a story about you getting M&Ms at work, and your boss hanging out in the next cubicle with another employee, but hopefully you can create that image in your mind.  Human beings are social animals, and not everything we work for is external.  Have you ever seen a marriage break up because one partner works all the time, and the other partner feels lonely and neglected?  They have plenty of money and can buy whatever they want, but they don’t communicate at all and no one is very happy.  And we run into a similar problem with the ‘treats as a paycheck’ argument.  I don’t know about you, but I’ve left jobs that paid well because I thought my boss was a jerk, or because I just wasn’t happy.

Dogs, too, are social animals.  Their ultimate satisfaction is going to come from their social partners.  In this case, those partners are you, your kids, and your spouse.  Although other animals are social as well, dogs are uniquely designed (I hate that word, let’s say rather, they were bred) to understand and relate to us.  They aren’t rats, dolphins, or tigers, and they don’t need anything except our positive interactions to encourage obedience.

Long Term Obedience

Here’s the thing they don’t tell you with treat training. BETTER long-term success rates are accomplished with praise over food.  Want that one again: dogs trained with praise will continue to follow commands at a much better rate than dogs trained only with food.  In fact, I would argue that when we are weaning our dogs off food treats, our dogs can become completely confused.  He has no idea why he didn’t get the treat this time, and he might start adding different behaviors to see if he misunderstood the cue.  You ask for a sit, he does it.  You don’t give the treat, so now he lies down, gives a paw, or tries something else.  He is completely confused, and is now screwing up the training you worked so hard to accomplish.

Compare that to a dog trained with a nice balanced combination.  He is never confused.  He knows when you say sit you mean sit, and he can tell by your words and body language that you appreciate his obedience to the command.   Even if you have to give a command in an irritated tone, and without a treat,  he will still obey 100% because he isn’t working for the cheese, he is working for you.

In other words, you may have used praise, but he was ALSO learning what makes you happy and what doesn’t.  He doesn’t have to rely on a food treat to tell him when he got it right.

How to use treats in training (the right way)

I’ve mentioned elsewhere that I love luring and shaping.  Dogs enjoy this, and follow their noses to their own success.  Treats are a great way to introduce a trick or an obedience command.

But ALWAYS follow up the correct response with verbal praise.  This is the true reward for the behavior, and ultimately what will bring your relationship with your dog beyond the ‘click and treat’ stage.

I phase the treats out quickly (as soon as my dog knows the command and I don’t have to ‘lure’ him into position, I start phasing out the treat in obedience)  but continue to praise for the life of the dog.  Remember, though: your praise needs to make your dog feel good about himself, so tailor your praise to your dog.  Some like more enthusiastic praise than others, so watch your dog’s body language carefully.

Stubborn and difficult to train dogs

Not all dogs are alike, and some dogs are definitely harder to train than others.  Treats can really encourage these dogs to work, and can break through that barrier of stubbornness and past the frustration the two of you have experienced trying to work together.  But the ultimate goal is the same: you want the dog to be working for YOU so always follow up commands with praise as well.

Treats to correct lunging and over-stimulation:

Treats can be used to correct these things, but the problem here is timing.  You need to be able to give the treat BEFORE the dog focuses too strongly and BEFORE he or she starts to react.  If you give the treat when the dog is already out of control (thinking, perhaps, that you are distracting the dog), what you are really doing is telling the dog that you like the behavior they just engaged in.

I have found it more effective to put the dog in a situation where the stimulation is much less (building their tolerance), then treat for them staying calm.  Get a little closer to the object/person/dog, and treat again if they are still staying calm.  If they overreact, give a  correction, then back your dog up (may involve walking partially away) and then facing the same trigger again.  Treat for calm.  You are looking for relaxed body position here.  Praise praise praise.  If your dog takes the treat, but never looks at you, then you are too close.

Baby steps here, and your goal is to make a little progress over yesterday.  Don’t expect an overnight cure, but don’t give up.  And don’t be an idiot: don’t point out the stresser to your dog in a sing-song or excited voice.  You need to model calmness for your dog.

Toys:

I don’t mind toys in training, but I find I prefer to wait to use them until after the obedience session is complete.  Playing a game of fetch with Fido while you are trying to teach a nice sit can be too exciting and make it difficult for him to refocus on the training.  Dogs CAN do this, but I personally think it is a learned skill (calm for sit, excitement for toy, back to calm), so use your toy wisely and sparingly.  Toys DO have an edge over treats, though, since your dog is working for the game with YOU, rather than just the toy by itself.  You STILL need to praise when the dog performs a command correctly, even if he knows you have a toy in your pocket.

Note on Puppies:

Puppies are at a wonderful stage, and you can easily set them up to learn to please you.  Treats are great for this age (when correcting puppies, though needed, has to be handled with a careful hand), and can really help your puppy focus on what you are doing.  Just be sure to praise as well.  Don’t be surprised if your puppy stops his over-fascination with treats when he gets a bit older.  Puppies do things like that as they grow (and one more reason to praise, praise, PRAISE).

The Most important Part

I’ve mentioned elsewhere in this blog that it is VITAL that you earn respect from your dog.  Some of that respect is learned through corrections or discipline.  BUT training can be a wonderful way to earn your dog’s respect, as well.  Because he is learning what you like in a positive way, he can apply that to whatever else he does in your home.  It is the starting point for responding to light corrections, and a great way to hone his skills for reading your body language and tone.  BUT that is completely lost when we remove ourselves from the training and only substitute clickers and treats.  We are forced, then, to train respect and understanding in other ways.  And that is a horribly missed opportunity.

We can use training, too, to build our own understanding of our dogs, and to see how they tick.  Training is going to really strengthen the bond you have with you pal.  Don’t throw that away by reducing your dogs to hand-held clickers and an expensive pouch of treats.

Methods and Magic: Heel

There are a host of different ways to teach this very basic command.  I’ll try to cover all the methods, then tell you what I like best.  This is NOT a complete list, so if you are still struggling, be sure to ferret up other internet articles on how to teach this vital command.

Hands-off Luring method (positive): Hold a treat in your left hand.  Cock your elbow so that your hand is somewhere around the waist-band of your pants.  Put your dog on your left side, and let him sniff the treat so he knows it is there.  Walk forward a step, give the treat.  Walk forward two steps, give a treat.  When you come to a stop, pull the treat up and back to encourage the sit.  When he is reliably staying in that position for straight walking, turn slowly and give a treat.  When you love the look of this, say the command.  Phase out the treats.

Hands-off, non-luring method (positive):Or put your dog on your left side.  You can still have treats in your hand, but you aren’t going to let the dog know they are there.  Take a step forward.  If your dog also steps forward, drop a treat and praise.  Repeat this slowly, dropping a treat whenever your dog is in ‘heel’ position.  You don’t need to give the ‘heel’ command until your dog is reliably staying at your side.  Be sure to work this one against a wall, as well: put your dog between your body and the wall.  This will help your dog to stay in-line with you.

Hands-on method 1 (modified dominance): Put your dog on your left side in the heel position, and tell him to sit.  With the leash relatively tight, start walking with your left foot.  If he starts lunging ahead, turn into your dog, reminding him to ‘heel’.  Continue doing this as often as you need to, until your dog is staying in the heel position.  Praise for the correct body position.

Hands-on method 2 (dominance): Use the correction collar of your choice.  Put your dog, in a sit, on your left side. Say, “Heel” and start walking forward with your left foot.  If your dog lunges ahead of you, quickly tug the collar (it will either tighten or make a sound, both of which will startle your dog).  Each time he lunges forward or lags back, tug the leash.  It is VITAL that you use two hands on the leash for this, with a bit of slack between them, so you have the extra leash to give an accurate correction.  When you come to a stop, pull up on the leash to get a sit.

What works for me: Well, I can tell you the first method definitely works, but you are going to get a ‘show heel’ out of the bargain (face staring up at you).  If you like that look, then this will work perfectly.

I have used the final method countless times, and although the correction does initially startle the dog, they learn very quickly.  You DO need to know how to use the correction collar you’ve chosen, though, and remember to keep some slack in the line between you and your dog (but not much or your corrections won’t work), use two hands on the leash, and turn often to keep your dog’s attention. You need to practice turning both ways, and I find that turning INTO the dog is often difficult for the dog (and me!) at first, so be patient.

Of note: your steps are going to be important here.  If you are about to make a turn away from your dog, keep your steps small and turn slowly.  If you are turning INTO your dog, quick big steps will save you from falling over him.  Give him time to adjust, don’t whip him around in a circle.  And if you are about to stop and want a nice sit, slow down so he has an idea what you are about to do.  I DO initially tell my dog to sit when we come to a stop, but you won’t have to do that for very long before he realizes you ALWAYS want him to sit at a stop.

True show and obedience ring heeling requires many more steps to accomplish.  The methods above do NOT address this sort of heeling, so if you are interested in more advanced heels, you are encouraged to research or contact experts in that field.

 

 

For why I think heeling is of limited value, read

No More pointless heeling!!

For the basics on how to make sure you manage to teach your dog obedience commands (and other behaviors):

It’s Not Rocket Science

And for more specific training methods:

Methods and Magic: Leash Training

Methods and Magic: Sit

Methods and Magic: Lie Down

Methods and Magic: Stay

Methods and Magic: Come

Methods and Magic: Come

There are a host of different ways to teach this very basic command.  I’ll try to cover all the methods, then tell you what I like best.  This is NOT a complete list, so if you are still struggling, be sure to ferret up other internet articles on how to teach this vital command.

What will affect your success, however, is not so much in what you purposely teach, as it is in what you ACCIDENTALLY do.

Hands-off Luring method (positive): Have a treat in hand and your dog on a leash.  Call your dog’s name, and walk backward.  If he takes even a step in your direction, praise (say YES! or whatever your ‘treat coming’ word is) and treat.

Hands-on method 1 (modified dominance): Put your dog on a leash.  With him in a sit position, back up a few feet.  Call him to you in an excited voice.  If he doesn’t come, gently tug the leash, and reel him in if necessary.  When he gets to you, praise the heck out of him.  Repeat this, with your dog on a long line, until he is reliably coming when you call without the tugging.

You can also try putting your dog in a sit, then getting down on your knees, arms spread wide.  Call your dog to come in an excited voice.  What dog doesn’t love a hug?  Reeling probably won’t be necessary, but praise the heck out of your dog when he gets to you (with a hug 😉 )

Hands-on method 2 (dominance): I have never seen a truly ‘dominant’ way to teach this command.  All seem to be along the lines of the ‘gently reel them in’ method.  And no wonder: what dog is going to come to you if he’s afraid?  I CAN say this command used to be taught in conjunction with sit and stay.  In other words, put your dog in a sit, tell your dog to stay, then walk out the length of your leash.  When the time was up for the stay, drop to your knee and call your dog.  Give a tug on the leash to get him moving if necessary.  (I’m not entirely sure, but my guess is this was phased out because the dog would anticipate the ‘come’ command and break the stay too quickly)

What works for me: On this particular command, I like to be random.  So I will let my dog wander around on his leash, then call him to me out of the blue.  I try to sound interesting and excited, like I’m the BEST thing around.  Reel him in if necessary, and praise like crazy (and give a treat).  RELEASE the dog, wait a few moments, then repeat.  When he is reliably coming, go to a longer leash and repeat.  I phase the treats out a little more slowly on this command because dogs unlearn this one at a ridiculous rate.  I want to know my dog will ALWAYS come to me.  I try not to over-practice, but you can easily do this one every time your dog is outside for a potty break: call his name and say ‘come’.  When he comes in the door (which he was going to do anyway), give him a treat.

Where people screw this one up (badly):  They call the dog, the dog comes, they load him in the car to go home, or clip his nails, or yell at him for darting outside.  It is EXTREMELY important that you protect this command at all costs.  Someday, this one word may prevent a dog fight or even save your dog’s life.

So don’t: Call your dog to you if you have something unpleasant planned.

Don’t: always immediately bring your dog in the house, load him in the car, or end his free play time.  Make sure some (or most) of the time you say “come”, he just needs to come to you for a treat or praise before he gets to go back to play.

Don’t: ever call your dog if you are mad at him.

Don’t: Let your dog off-leash and try to use a 1/2 trained ‘come’ command to call him back.  Your dog needs to think you can enforce this one every single time, no matter what he’s doing.  For his safety, keep him on-lead until you are sure.

If your dog gets loose: I offer these ideas to get him back, since accidents will (and do) happen.  Rather than breaking the training you already have, try these: LOUDLY crinkle a bag of treats.  When the dog runs to you, hook his leash while simultaneously giving him the treat.  Or run in the opposite direction.  Or try sitting on the ground, your back to your dog, and pretend to cry.  Or excitedly jump around.  Run into your house, and half close the door.  Pet another dog.  Make funny animal noises or whistle.  Hide behind something and call his name.

The point is, DON’T use the ‘Come’ command unless you are 100% sure the experience will be positive, your dog will respond, and that you can make him obey during the training stage.

If your dog used to come but has stopped: you committed one of the ‘cardinal sins’ of the recall.  It’s not too late to fix, but you are going to have to back up and start over.  Just make sure coming when called is ALWAYS a positive experience (especially since you now need to regain his trust).  And there’s no magic in the word ‘come’ so if you think you totally blew it, don’t be afraid to use another word instead.

For the basics on how to make sure you manage to teach your dog obedience commands (and other behaviors):

It’s Not Rocket Science

And for more specific training methods:

Methods and Magic: Leash Training

Methods and Magic: Sit

Methods and Magic: Lie Down

Methods and Magic: Stay

Methods and Magic: Heel